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The only Thai restaurant in Brooklyn's Chinatown doesn't rise to Sripraphai levels of greatness, but it is certainly a worthy addition to an already delicious neighborhood. Som tum (green papaya salad), strewn with baby dried shrimp and doused in fish sauce-lime-chile dressing, is refreshingly zesty and properly, assertively hot. We gobbled up the grilled pork dunked in a dark soy-chile dipping sauce. But crispy pork with basil and chiles should be reserved for pig-fanatics only. The dish is basically a pile of deep-fried pork belly. The crispy crust often yielded to a bite of pork fat, without any meat-good for a couple bites, but overwhelmingly funky after that. Share it with a crowd. Still, MaiThai gets our thumbs up for deploying vivid sweet-sour-salty flavors, exuberantly and authentically spiced.
Our long pork-belly winter has faded into the back-ground. Following the dictates of our foodie patriarchs, we've obediently sucked down hundredweights of lard, butter, and tallow, and generally treated our weary corpses as oleaginous dumping... More »
A few weeks ago, we reported on Am-Thai Chili Basil Kitchen, a microscopic but very good restaurant in Kensington that specializes in the cooking of Bangkok and Thailand's southern peninsula. Soon after, I stumbled on a new Thai restaurant at the... More »
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