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Mable's is the third in a string of great Williamsburg barbecues (the others: Fette Sau and Fatty 'Cue). Dispensed from a counter by the platter or sandwich, the brisket is moist and flavorful, with just the right amount of fat; the pork ribs nicely smoke-ringed; and the hot links imported from Oklahoma, exemplary of their kind. Only the pulled pork bombs--gobbed with a sickly sweet sauce and textured like an old mop. The sides are better than they need to be, but not all that good, which is the way barbecues should be--no use distracting you from the 'cue. A couple of bar snacks merit mention: Frito pie and Tex-Mex chili con queso.
If someone had told me five years ago that Williamsburg would become the city's foremost barbecue destination, I would have guffawed. After all, most of the BBQ joints in town then—which numbered about a dozen—were located in Manhattan, whining... More »
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