Description
A revisit to Lupa--Batali/Bastianich's first foray into the restaurant biz a decade ago--shows a menu just as vigorous and inquisitive as it was when this Osteria Romana ("Roman Inn") first opened a decade ago. The head cheese is just as warm and crumbly (always go for the asterisked house-made charcuterie); the composed vegetables dishes still brilliant and served in little alabaster terrines (winter squash with pumpkin seeds our favorite this time around); and the pastas every bit as scintillating, and Rome-appropriate. Italian food doesn't get any better than this in NYC.
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