Compared with the curries at Sripraphai, Lotus of Siam"s are thicker; compared with the stir-fries, Lotus of Siam"s are more herby, and possess flavors you might not get in Woodside -- making the food at this deluxe Siamese unique in the city. On the other hand, the food is expensive, the servings small, and the wine list astronomically priced; those familiar with the original Las Vegas branch will be disappointed both at the cost and at how some of the dishes have been made blander. Still, we loved the green curry, the competing pair of Northern Thai pork larbs, the chicken wings, and the Massaman curry. Alas, no catfish or variety meats on the menu!
In 1994, when chef Saipin Chutima took over at Renu Nakorn—located in a strip mall 20 minutes south of downtown L.A.—it was already one of the best-regarded Thai restaurants in Southern California. Responding to its spicy Isaan cooking, Jonathan... More »
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