No red meat at this lonchera: Los Primos Mariscos makes seafood with a Nayarit twist. This means the freshness and sourness for which the coastal Mexican state's cuisine is famous reverberate from every plate. Most impressive is the ceviche: So many chunks of shrimp or fish are packed on the large tostada it's only a matter of time before the Santa Ana P.D. cites Los Primos Mariscos for overcrowding.
I should've written this column in the summer, when jolting doses of sour meals counter the oppressive heat. But puckering dishes comfort fall palates too: a plate like ceviche or a lemon tart will liven you from the autumn chill that won't leave... More »
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