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Long (the "o" pronounced as "ao") brings everything the Nguyen family have done at their popular Tamarind Tree into the realm of fine dining: tonier decor, more formal service, and more sophisticated dishes with equally sophisticated prices. The joke quickly emerged, though, that the restaurant was named after its epic menu. The best approach is to eat low on the, er, food chain: Appetizers like fried-catfish spring rolls and meltingly tender satays as well as the herb-strewn salads (scallop-pomelo, banana-blossom) are exquisite. Vegetable sides like kohlrabi stir-fried with dill are straightforward and reliable. Meanwhile, the entrees follow the general rule that the more you pay, the less impressed you'll be.
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