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Jason Moniz and Mario Duarte's restaurant is doing all the things Michael Pollan recommends - building relationships with farms (listed on the menu) and switching up the menu frequently and thoroughly to capture this very moment in time. The restaurant is simply decorated in stocky furniture and lamps made from reclaimed materials, and has a comfortable, neighborly vibe. While there are highs at dinner (roasted carrots and avocados in sesame dressing, for example), the kitchen seems easily flustered, which simple California cuisine does not tolerate. At lunch, though, Moniz's sausages - which are made from a whole pig he brings in from the Capay Valley and include maple andouille, spicy Italian, and adobo - are affordably priced and often spectacular.
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