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Phil Romano's stab at a New England-style seafood shack comes off well. Lobsters are offered in more ways than you can cook a steak: steamed, grilled, kabobed, in pasta, in bisque, in cocktails--even in a potpie. The daily fresh fish is impeccable, as is the raw bar. But there are no crabs save for a couple of cakes and a cocktail. Crab-free is good in many contexts, but not this one.
It's no mystery why bibs are strapped to diners before they arm themselves with pipe wrenches and little twin-pronged awls to mutilate whole lobsters: Lobster butter-splatter makes a Loony Toon tie look like hell. The real mystery is why bibs... More »
There's a sight at Lobster Ranch I can't seem to get out of my head. It's in the lobster tank, which is behind a display case where other live lobsters crawl tentatively around crushed ice like Raid-misted mantises and huge North Atlantic... More »
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