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LloydMartin, a thoroughly manly joint named for owner Sam Crannell's grandfathers, is a kind of haute-cuisine hangout, where folks can repair for a glass of wine or plate of pasta without first consulting the calendar. This restaurant has a delicious talent for game meats and big red wines: Crannell's elk-ragù fettuccine, which should be permanently exempt from seasonal rules that forbid year-round menu items, is a bold, earthy example of near-perfection, and many of his other dishes don't lag far behind. The dimly lit Queen Anne restaurant briefly switched to an all-reservations system when walk-in traffic proved inadequate, then permitted walk-ins again. As more diners catch on to what Crannell's doing, reservations may again become necessary.
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