Description
It's one hell of a lobster roll chef Jason Travi is serving, the balance of bouncy lobster meat to creamy dressing exactly right, with the nice touch of a parsley salad on the side. Servers at Hollywood's newly opened littlefork instruct you to top the lobster roll with the salad, "like Chef did it when he was growing up." There's a lot of unabashed nostalgia at play here. The chowder is creamy and soothing, the smoke from the bacon and brine from the clams in perfect balance. Steamed snow crab legs come splayed across the plate, their arachnid form dressed with chermoula and charred lime. They're as messy to eat as they are fun — although if the table next to you orders them, beware. I was sprayed with flying crab bits from adjacent diners twice during my visits. —Besha Rodell
