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Those who knew the old Little Pepper space on a hardscrabble stretch of Roosevelt Avenue will be impressed with the latest premises located two miles north in College Point--spacious and decorated with good photos. The menu remains quintessentially Sichuan, with three types of spicy wontons (two in soups), fresh fish in abundance swimming in lakes of hot chili oil, and some of the best French fries in town ("fried potato in hot sauce") -- dusted with Sichuan peppercorns. Only the tea-smoked duck disappoints, and for the tender tongued, there are now a handful of Cantonese and Taiwanese recipes. Lots of vegetables on the new menu, too, including crunchy lotus and squishy loofah, and don't miss the spectacular succotash of corn and pine nuts.
Chicken, Oreos, and even butter, are all fried standards by now, but what beats classic French fries? Crisp, sprinkled with salt and pepper, and dunked in ketchup (or mayonnaise), fries are irresist... More »
See what NYC's restaurant critics have been up to this week: Robert Sietsema tries the Sichuan fare at Little Pepper: "The tiny chunks of light and dark meat lurk among bales of toasted red chiles,... More »
1. Crust of Cooked Rice With Pork -- This dish hails from Zhejiang, the maritime province just south of Shanghai. The flavors are rich and mellow, and the crunchiness of the rice is a bonus. This we... More »
Seven years ago, when Little Pepper opened on Roosevelt Avenue across from the Bland housing projects, it was hard to get diners to go there. Located on the subterranean level of a fading strip mall, it was surrounded by massage parlors, and the... More »
Look out mouth! Here they come. It's the best thing since the invention of shoestrings: French fries dusted with crushed Sichuan peppercorns. Cram a handful in your mouth, and they scrunch and squis... More »
There can be no doubt that Bush's VP is an evil dude, so we've developed our own version of extraordinary rendition for him. First, we'll lure him into a black limo somewhere in midtown with naked pix of the prez and first lady, then whisk him to Flushing, Queens. There we'll force-feed him a meal at Little Pepper (a/k/a Xiao La Jiao), where he'll scream as we waterboard him with soft bean curd in spicy sauce, dan-dan noodles, and--the pièce de résistance--dried... More »
Calmly poached in oil--rather than violently fried--the french fries at Little Pepper are pale, soothing the tongue with their creamy texture. But what they're dusted with provides an opposite experience: The crinkle-cuts come thickly coated with a ground mixture of cumin and Sichuan peppercorns. Little Pepper is the foremost dispenser of huajiao (Sichuan peppercorns) in town, shrub buds that leave your tongue throbbing with pain and pleasure. Sautéed lamb dusted with cumin... More »
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