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It's a claustrophobic space with vaulted ceilings, like a broom closet attached to an open attic. Faded tintype photos hang on stuccoed walls, and a heat lamp warms baskets of freshly fried chips. The food, despite its name, is of the Mexican-American variety: sloppy, greasy, brilliant.
Sometimes we want regional Mexican food--corundas and pozole from Las Brisas de Apatzingan or thick, rich moles from El Moctezuma--and sometimes we just want the familiar old combination plate with it... More »
If your idea of Mexican food includes huitlacoche or lengua tacos slung out from roach coaches, go to Gustavo Arellano's This Hole-in-the-Wall Life column. There, you'll often read tips on food cooked to please discriminating Mexican palates... More »
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