Description
Little Dom's, is the kind of battered, intimate restaurant that seems like a
relic from the midcentury, when this stretch of Los Feliz was still more or
less an Italian area, but it was created out of whole cloth by the Dominick's team of Warner Ebbink and chef Brandon Boudet, which means that the meatball sub is on the menu because they like it, not because of any preferences of guys who have been coming here since 1953. Every time I go to the restaurant I run into something a regular would have known, like the fact that the brunch frittatas are tough and overdone but the poached eggs with fennel-pollen Hollandaise are luscious, or that you are always better off getting the pappardelle with sausage and still more fennel pollen than something fancier, like pan-fried gnocchi with an over-reduced mushroom cream.
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