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This Austrian restaurant in Russian Hill can't have gauged the neighborhood more astutely: The mood is casual and celebratory, burnished with enough European-ness to spark nostalgia for a thousand summer trips. Same with the entrée prices, which average $15; the solid but not gut-busting food, which is often quite good; and the neighborhood appeal of giant steins of beer (including a popular two-liter glass boot). With the exception of unctuous, crisp-edged pork trotter cakes, owners Karl and Albert Rainer bring out the fresher, bright side of Austrian cuisine: excellent roasted-vegetable strudel, a roasted beet salad garnished with toasted walnuts, oilless schnitzel, gossamer spaetzle. And the German and Belgian beer list is worth tasting your way through, provided you do it in normal-sized glasses.
The table next to us at Leopold's cheered as a beaming server, her décolletage framed in Teutonic ruffles, hoisted a couple of 18-inch-tall boots filled with beer onto their table. I measured up the glass boots — which looked like they could fit... More »
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