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Look behind the plate-glass window of this little storefront and you'll find the home of the Cities' best catfish--miraculously grease-free fillets as crisp as potato chips and just as devourable. Off-the-menu greens are a smoky delight (when they're available) and the pulled-pork sandwich is a cinch for the local barbecue hall of fame, its Brie-soft morsels offering the scent of summer bonfires. Set some fresh, milky coleslaw up top and winter in St. Paul starts to seem a lot like summer in Memphis.
It's gotta be a rule that fanciness and great barbecue are mutually exclusive. We've just never found decent ribs in a place with padded booths and linen tablecloths. Lee and Dee Smith have been churning out the Cities' most consistently excellent barbecue for 15 years, and their little restaurant's biggest claim to fanciness is a rabbit-eared TV mounted on one wall. Their pork sandwiches are hearty enough for any appetite and dripping with rich, tangy sauce; the ribs are slow-cooked until... More »
It's largely a myth that you can't get good barbecue in the Twin Cities--scores of places do up barbecue in some sort of "authentic" style. The trouble with that, of course, is that paying homage to some variation of barbecue feels anything but authentic. Great barbecue here is rare. Some exceptions to this faux home-cookin' aesthetic this year were the old standby Market Bar-B-Que on 14th and Nicollet and the upstart Big E's down the road on 18th and Nicollet. But Market suffers from being... More »
Lee's & Dee's Bar-B-Que Express 161 N. Victoria St., St. Paul; 225-9454 Slick, elegant, and fancy are not compliments in the world of barbecue. Books have been written about how to sniff out barbecue with not a hint of luxe: Clean, well-lit... More »
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