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Named after the capital of Guinea, this pan-West African restaurant excels at vast bowls of stew accompanied by plates of perfect polished white rice. From Guinea itself comes sauce de feuilles (aleaf saucea), a green thicket of young cassava leaves punctuated with lamb stumps; from Cote DaIvoire comes fried fish accompanied by athieke, a cassava stodge something like couscous; and from Senegal comes a couscous with veggies and mustard relish. You can find peanut sauce anywhere in West Africa, and Le Conakry has as fine a version as youall find anywhere in Harlem or Brooklyn.
Like French cuisine, Guinea's cooking is based on a series of sauces. As I stood before the counter at Le Conakrya new place named after the West African country's peninsular capitalthe daughter of the cook was writing the names of the sauces... More »
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