Description
Eric Ripert is a busy man these days. He is a constant presence on TV yet he still somehow manages to actually oversee his four-star kitchen, a rare sight these days when it comes to celebrity chefs. The focus here is seafood, prepared with subtle mastery and international (mostly Asian) touches. The prix fixe menu ($112) is divided into three categories: Almost Raw, Barely Touched and Lightly Cooked, a sign of Ripert's light touch and reluctance to embrace showy cookmanship. If you¹re feeling really indulgent, opt for the eight-course chef's tasting menu ($185). Wine lovers are in the good hands of Aldo Sohm, winner of the 2008 Best Sommelier in the World competition in Rome, who has around 900 different wines to choose from. The restaurant itself has a conservative, sophisticated look to it, all earth tones and rich wooden details punctuated by bright flower displays. Guests in expensive suits and smart dresses get the kind of service one would expect for hundred dollar meals, that is to say, attentive without being overbearing.—Keith Wagstaff
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