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Lazy Ox occupies a long, narrow dining room downtown, jammed into the ground floor of a new Little Tokyo condo complex, fashionably unmarked on the outside, unless you count the tables full of dudes drinking Japanese microbrews, and is as dark as Proust's cork-lined room once you finally find the door. There are many, many tables for two, some of them jammed together to create rickety banquet tables, and huge chalkboard menus, listing 20 to 30 dishes or more, posted at each end of the dining room. The restaurant's best dish may be the deep-flavored purée of pasilla chiles peppered with a handful of crunchy pork rinds, which melt into and enrich the soup.
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Industrial, dimly lit downtown space that's worth the drive through Skid Row because foodie plates both big and small to share - like quinoa with marrow sauce and homemade torn pasta with the most perfect fried egg (runny yolk, crispy-edged whites) - await you. Competent wine list along with shoju cocktails. Park in the pay lot just up from the restaurant for best-lit safety, and listen to your server's suggestions from the menu.
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