Description
This Nicaraguan restaurant in the Mission District, which many in the Nicoya community consider the best in town, is open only during the day. More forebodingly, before making your way to a table in the massive pink dining room, you have to pass through its cafeteria line, looking over a steam table stocked with gallons of pinto gallo (fried rice and beans) and mondongo (tripe soup), enough plantain chips for a fraternity Super Bowl party, and desserts portioned into plastic cups. The cafeteria setup belies the food's quality. For the ultimate, three-person Nicaraguan sampler, get the Antojitos "Las Tinajas" platter: gallo pinto, squeaky fried cheese, custardy ripe plantains, a heap of lime-dressed cabbage slaw, and steaks of beef and marinated pork, fresh off the grill. Douse everything at this Central American restaurant in chileros (pickled onions) to counterbalance its heartiness.
