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When we first walked in, we were not impressed with L'Artusi's decor. With its dark walls, it's as though we were in cave, while the striped furniture made it circus-like. But once the food started to trapeze in, we were delighted. Using Italian ingredients tweaked with plenty of New American ideas, the cavallo nero arrived bathed in pureed parsnip, which added sweetness to the dark Tuscan weed. Served on a bed of creamy polenta, the short rib shone with its caramelized;almost gooey;surface. And the gnudi were creamier than April Bloomfield's at Spotted Pig. Brought to you by the folks from Dellanima, L'Artusi promises to be a West Village classic.
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