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The food at this Tex-Mex time capsule in Richmond seems indistinguishable from the fare at dozens of more conveniently located Mexican joints -- until you dig into the old-fashioned cheese enchiladas. While you work away on the rolled tortillas, the viscous yellow cheese sauce oozes into the dark brown chili gravy, creating a delicious masterpiece of yellow and brown swirls. The goop that's left on the plate after the enchiladas are gone may be the most significant Tex-Mex contribution to world cuisine. And nobody's cheese-enchilada residue holds a candle to Larry's.
You may think you prefer authentic Mexican enchiladas made with imported queso, but that's only because you haven't eaten at Larry's lately. Sure, the American cheese-filled enchiladas here are relics of the 1960s. But the truth is Larry's old-fashioned cheese enchiladas taste better than those earnest enchiladas made with real cheese. Only processed American cheese will melt into those viscous yellow swirls that mix so brilliantly with the dark brown chili gravy. And only processed American... More »
Larry's Original Mexican Restaurant Larry's cheese enchiladas actually have a lot in common with their spaghetti mexicano. They're both relics. The difference is, Larry's cheese enchiladas taste as good, or better, than modern Tex-Mex cheese enchiladas. The viscous yellow cheese swirls around the dark brown chili gravy, creating an abstract masterpiece that's half melted cheese, half enchilada sauce. Even after 30 minutes of beer drinking, the cheese doesn't harden on the plate. How does... More »
Neon beer signs glow brightly in the cool darkness. The taco and tostada are made of old-fashioned ground beef with a minimum of seasonings and a maximum of chopped iceberg. The tamale and rice and beans are served swimming in chili gravy. Larry's seems indistinguishable from dozens of other vintage Tex-Mex joints -- until you dig into the cheese enchiladas. Then, while you're working away on the rolled tortillas, a miracle takes place on the plate. Viscous yellow cheese sauce oozes into... More »
Neon beer signs glow brightly in the cool darkness of Larry's, a vintage Mexican restaurant in Richmond. It's a blazing hot afternoon, and I sit down at a Formica table to wait for my eyes to adjust. The wooden chairs are painted orange and blue,... More »
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