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Lark's artistic spirit is reflected in everything about the restaurant, from the First Thursday regulars who make up its clientele to the poetry on its menu. One is tempted to scan the meter of lines like "Skagit River Ranch beef tongue with horseradish and wild watercress," "Spanish mackerel with fennel, olives, and preserved-lemon tapenade," and "naturally raised veal sweetbreads with spinach, bacon, and grain mustard." James Beard Award-winning chef John Sundstrom's food, served up as a swarm of small, composed plates, inspires customers on a romantic outing to twirl each bite around the plate to catch the right amount of sauce, breathing in while they graze to catch all the aromatic nuances of the food. That level of attention, from both cooks and diners, is what makes the atmosphere seem so much like a gallery.
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