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This Hawaiian fast-food chain's fare is a trashy, idiosyncratic fusion of Chinese, Japanese, and American vernacular, circa 1950, but it might as well be from another planet. Check out the Spam nori-wrapped rice balls, noodles known as saimin, and beef short ribs glazed with a sweet, salty sauce, accompanied by mountains of white rice and a mayo macaroni salad straight out of Family Circle. Best of all is the barbecued pork, pulled in big clumps and strangely tossed with steamed cabbage. It really tastes like barbecue.
There are only two Hawaiian restaurants in town we know of, and L & L Hawaiian Barbecue is the better one. Look for Japanese dishes like nori rolls and katsudon; Chinese spring rolls and dumplings; and--best of all--Honolulu-style barbecued pork, shredded and tossed with cabbage, and smoky as all get-out. Spam abounds on the menu, too. Don't be afraid of it. 64 Fulton Street, 212-577-2087, hawaiianbarbecue.com/live/locations/new-york (10038) More »
We've always depended on noodles for a cheap, fast meal, and with the economy on the skids, we've never needed them as much as we need them now. Luckily, there are more types to choose from in New York than ever before. The recent flood of... More »
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