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Cloning a noodle paradigm popular in Manhattan's Chinatown, Lan Zhou (the name of the city in Gansu where the noodle was invented) one-ups the earlier joints by 1) being smaller and more intimate, 2) concentrating on only one kind of noodle, 3) providing a superior assortment of condiments, which must be deployed at your discretion to help the noodles reach their full potential. And man, when the noodle fabricator whips the skein of dough onto the prep surface, the report could crack your ear drums. Of the 15 varieties offered, our fave is number five, "hand pull noodle w. mixed beef in sauce."
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