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Making good use of garlic and tingly sichuan peppercorns, this Michelin-starred Sichuan restaurant in Midtown West hits all the staples of the cuisine: Ma Po Tofu, Dan Dan Noodles, and Camphor Tea Smoked Duck. But the menu also features an extensive selection of offal in chile sauce, and makes good use of such hard-to-find meats as rabbit, frog, and catfish in its entrees. Catering to the Midtown office crowd with daily lunch specials, and to milder palates with a selection of generic Cantonese dishes (General Tso's Chicken, Pork-Fried Rice), while also taking an unusual level of care with its vegetarian dishes (especially good are the salt-and-pepper lotus root and pumpkin sauteed with green chilies. Headed by a chef trained in Chengdu, this unusually versatile restaurant has a friendly, accommodating staff, and it even offers beer and wine to wash everything down. --Diana Clarke
Braised whole fish with hot bean sauce at Grand Sichuan House When Sichuan sailed into town in the '70s, it was spelled Szechuan, and the food was a pale evocation of one of China's foremost regiona... More »
Robert Sietsema's Top 10 1. This doesn't mean I'm forsaking my first love, Katz's pastrami, but the smoked-meat sandwich at Mile End is denser, redder, and offered in a sandwich that's just the right size for one person to eat, which means I... More »
We pat ourselves on the back for certain food choices. But what do we know about the runner who brought the vegetarian entrée, or the cook who seared the local bluefish? We sit down, we order, we chat with our friends, we eat. The comfortable... More »
At Lan Sheng, a relatively new Sichuan spot on 39th Street, the glory of the menu is the Chongqing braised fish. The dish is named after its native home, a municipality near Sichuan province that Fuchsia Dunlop describes as having a "filthy magnificence." The preparation is staggeringly generous--a huge, bubbling hot pot of chile oil, Sichuan peppercorns, leeks, Napa cabbage cooked down to silk, and delicate pieces of carp, its flesh stained orange with spice. I wish I could eat it... More »
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