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La Santaneca's pupusas -- griddle-cooked corn or rice cakes stuffed with cheese, beans, or pork -- are good, the curtido (spicy pickled cabbage) particularly piquant. The yuca with chicharron is fried to a golden crackle, and the banana-wrapped tamales de chipilin approach the lightness of a meringue. Drinks at this Mission District Salvadorean restaurant range from toasted-seed horchata to tiste, a Frappuccino-like blend of roasted corn and cacao beans.
By rights, San Francisco should be deep into soup season, when our space heaters strain to combat the cold leaching through the windows of our Edwardian apartments, and dampness clings to sweaters and bus seats like bad juju. Through January and... More »
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