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La Medusa smartly manages to respectfully serve food from a far-off place—here, the working idiom is Sicilian—and clearly reflect its neighborhood. The sardines, anchovies, fennel and mint are surrounded by a friendly, earnest vibe that might reach its apex on summer Wednesdays, when the kitchen crafts a prix-fixe menu around whatever looked best at the nearby Columbia City Farmers Market earlier in the day. But freshness and excellence aren't confined to mid-week suppers: La Medusa turns out wonderful housemade pastas, lovingly cooked meats and seafoods, and delicate greens every night of the year.
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