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At Glen Park's La Corneta, the best of a chain of taquerias, the quesadillas are stuffed so fat they resemble throw pillows, the tacos are heaped high with meat and beans, and the burrito is king. La Corneta is the only taqueria in San Francisco at which the cooks can get away with tucking lettuce in with the rice and beans. That's because the chicken and steak super burritos at this Mexican restaurant are spectacular: smoky from the grill, tangy from the melted cheese, packed with beans and rice that thrum with flavor, then doped up with a bright pico de gallo plus what ever you fetch from the salsa bar. Hey, it's a San Francisco burrito: We're allowed to do whatever we want with the dish and call it authentic, so long as it's good.
Oh, the gastronomic abuse that has been perpetrated in under the guise of a super burrito. Too often, "super" means gloopy, starchy, overwhelmed by bland rice. The super burritos served at La Corneta's Glen Park location incorporate fistfuls of cheese and fresh lettuce in their super burrito, but the flavor comes out bold and balanced. Grill smoke still hugs the steak and chicken. The rice is cooked with enough aromatics to taste vivid. The lettuce adds a fragile crunch, and the cheese and... More »
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