La Cigale

• Cuisine(s): French
  Hours: Mon-Sat 9 a.m.-11 p.m.
  Price: $$$
  Payment Types: All Major Credit Cards
• Attire: Casual
  Features: Delivery, Family Style, Takeout, Vegetarian Friendly
  Serving: Dinner, Lunch
  Alcohol: Full bar
• Reservations: Accepted
  Parking: Lot Available

Description

La Cigale means "the cicada," so when diners enter the ten-table strip-mall bistro, they are greeted by the singing chirps of a mechanical insect. This occurs each time the door opens, which can get annoying, but at least the cricket-like sounds are translated somewhat accurately. This is more than can be said for the French cuisine. Husband/wife owners Thierry and Veronique Bossa hail from Marseilles. Cigale's concise listing of old-school French favorites is bolstered by a few nightly specials. A simple lentil salad dressed with shallots and vinegar was better than a niçoise salad with canned tuna and olives. Six "shrimp Provençal" passed muster, as did grilled skirt steak with thin golden fries. An à la carte side of ratatouille was cooked the Old World way, meaning stewed at length until the eggplant and zucchini are barely distinguishable. Prices are fair enough: Salads and appetizers run $5 to $10, entrées $14 to $20, a short selection of wines $25 to $29. Dessert, however, delivers the only bargain: a freshly baked, lusciously moist slice of lavender cake, with barely a hint of lavender, cradling a scoop of pistachio ice cream ($8).