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In the auto-repair district of East Los Angeles, La China Poblana is one of the better places in East L.A. to find the cemita, the classic street food of Puebla, a multilayered sandwich on a dense, toasted sesame-seeded bun, a crunchy thing that softens under the oily heat of its filling. The cemitas roll is sliced, crisped on the stove and crammed full of good stuff: thin slivers of avocado, slices of ghost-white panela cheese, and perhaps a tangle of pickled onions, carrots and jalapeno peppers. But the most popular filling by far is the milanesa - beef pounded to the thickness of a playing card, dredged in flour, and fried in clean oil to a sort of bronzed, leathery crispness that is closer in every way to a really large Maui potato chip than to anything you might call steak. Sandwiches $3 to $4.
Photo by Anne Fishbein For a long time now, the busiest Eastside taquerías have planted lunch wagons in their parking lots out back on weekends, doubling the rate of taco production on busy Saturdays and getting use out of the trucks that linger... More »
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