Description
In Oaxaca, a simple bowl of mole (there are seven official kinds) and a stack of freshly made tortillas is a noble meal. You can find both at La Casa Azul, a comfortable, colorful strip-mall restaurant serving Mexican cuisine on the northern reaches of Greenwood. The menu isn't universally spectacular, but Casa Azul's entomatadas and picaditas are as good as the ones at the much-loved La Carta de Oaxaca-without the wait-and the tlayuda, a cross between a nacho and a pizza, is the best in town. While the chefs' mole negro can be uncomfortably bitter, their brick-colored mole coloradito is much more finely tuned, with a grapy richness and a syncopated heat that shows up right after you've stopped bracing for it.
