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After years of squeezing in like drupelets for a taste of "Mamma's" homemade gnocchi, burrata with vegetables, and trenette al pesto, the dining room at La Buca, the beloved pasta-intensive commissary down the street from Paramount, is at last bigger than the inside of a minivan - a soaring, wood-paneled space with wine-bottle chandeliers, picture windows looking out onto Melrose, and a peculiar glassed-in aerie above the bar that may eventually function either as a VIP room or as the observatory of a CAA panopticon. The menu is still a bastion of new-generation Italian comfort food: smoky pappardelle flavored with scamorza cheese, spinach-stuffed ravioli with butter and sage, and tiramisu for dessert.
Photo by Anne Fishbein LA BUCA IS A TINY NEW ITALIAN CAFÉ ON MELROSE, JUST EAST OF the studios. And I mean tiny. It is, as named, a box -- about as high as it is wide. The walls are crowded with poster-size movie stills from Italian comedies and... More »
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