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Kokkari offers pricey but well-conceived Greek food (classic dishes mildly tweaked to remain consonant with seasonal California cuisine) in a comfortable, rather formal (but noisy) setting right off the Embarcadero. Request seating away from the front bar room if you're interested in conversation. The starters (mezethes) are unusually good.
I've never been to Greece, though I made a concerted effort one year when I was 16 and applied to a drama school in Delphi for a summer session. I think I was attracted as much to an imagined landscape of a brilliant white, rocky seacoast and... More »
When you walk in the door at Kokkari, you immediately see how the owners spent $5 million renovating and decorating the place. Never mind that the real Kokkari is actually a small fishing village on the Aegean Sea, or that Greek food has... More »
There are many pleasures to be had in this rather formal room, which could be in a Spanish grandee's castle rather than a Greek taverna, and is close enough to the Embarcadero to catch a sea breeze. But there's one dish that demands to be ordered. For $6.50, you get an impressive heap of fried smelts (marithes tiganites) stacked up like kindling -- plump, golden, impossibly crisp, and compulsively edible, like the piscine equivalent of french fries or potato chips. (Ask for extra lemon.)... More »
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