KOI Los Angeles

At a time when hot restaurants tend to have the lifespan of mayflies, Koi is more popular than ever, a hookup nirvana of intimate patios and forested corners; a dining room whose seating chart seems ripped straight from the pages of Us Weekly. Koi’s matrix of sushi, celebrity and sex bumped up the paradigm, and there are now Koi-like lounges around the globe. It is widely believed, though, that the post-Matsuhisa-style cuisine at Koi is an afterthought, that the avocado-laden tuna tartare on crispy won tons, the tuna sashimi with jalapeno, and the albacore Italiano are secondary to the rush, the scene, even the steak. But somebody has been paying attention behind the sushi bar — the sourcing of the fish is extraordinary. And if you’re going to eat something like a baked-crab hand roll, you might as well have a good one. It’ll give you something to do while you eavesdrop on Lindsay Lohan.

• Cuisine(s): California, Contemporary, Japanese, Sushi

  Hours: Thu 6pm-11:30pm, Fri-Sat 6pm-12am, Sun-Wed 6pm-11pm

  Price: $$$

• Payment Types: All Major Credit Cards

  Features: Patio/Sidewalk Dining, Takeout, Private Party, Family Style, Business Dining, Fireplace

  Serving: Dinner, Late Night

• Alcohol: Full bar

  Reservations: Accepted, Required

  Parking: Valet