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This tiny, plain-spoken spot, hidden off Japan's main restaurant strip, has a five-seat sushi counter and three small tables. A reservation is probably a good idea, especially if you want to sit at Takao Nakagawa's sushi bar and watch him work. Nakagawa's sushi is well-regarded, but his cooked plates are superior — sardine noodle soups, steamed custard with mushrooms, fried shrimp and tofu balls in sweet soy-dashi broth. The best way to go is to order a couple of glasses off the intriguing sake list and then one of the omakase (chef's choice) menus, each featuring 5 or 6 plates, including sashimi and sushi.
With dozens and dozens of sushi bars in this hungry city it seems that the sushi bar has overtaken the cocktail bar in numbers I still hadn't found my raw-fish nirvana. I'd had memorable dinners at Kabuto A&S, Kyo-Ya, Midori Mushi, and Ino,... More »
Naming a restaurant that seats at most a dozen people at a time (five at an angled maple sushi bar, and up to eight more at two or three tables) as our favorite is not intended to be maddening -- or elitist. It's just to encourage those of you who'd enjoy watching a real sushi master (the owner, known to regulars as Naka-san) at work to make your reservations and sample the impeccable sushi and cooked dishes offered at Kiss. The clean-lined room is a chic, modern white box. You can order... More »
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