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Even on Monday nights, this Wallingford sushi restaurant is constantly hopping; after a couple visits, you learn to always call ahead for a reservation. Kisaku's relatively short menu is something of a surprise, which is why those who normally order standard sushi rolls as a more economical alternative to nigiri should resist the urge here. Kisaku's nigiri comes in super-sized proportions: Thick slabs of fish blanket handfuls of sticky rice so big it takes four bites to eat one piece. Specific notables include the buttery, flawless albacore and silky wild salmon, but the consistently superior quality of the fish makes Kisaku the perfect place to get adventurous and try things like geoduck. Because if you don't like the giant clam's raw-carrot crunch at Kisaku, you probably won't like it anywhere else either.
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