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Since 1982, after she fled her first restaurant in Vinh Long, Vietnam, Mama La has been sharing authentic Vietnamese food with Houstonians. The menu is as massive as the restaurant itself, shadowing the southeast side of downtown. A sumptuous interior is as comfortable as the food itself. The charbroiled Vietnamese fajitas are a fusion of both the old and new worlds, and the Vietnamese crepes, garlic butter fried shrimp and sugarcane shrimp are not to be missed. You will be hard-pressed to try any dish here that you won't enjoy.
The first time I went to the gigantic new Kim Son restaurant at Bellaire and Wilcrest, it was Sunday around noon, and there was a 20-minute wait for a table in the dim sum hall. So while we were waiting, I walked around and peeked into some of... More »
By their very nature, blind dates are supposed to entail a certain amount of surprise. So I waited and waited and waited in the reception area of Kim Son (2001 Jefferson, 713-222-2461). Finally I resigned myself to the fact that I'd be dining... More »
The yellow dragon rears back on his hind legs and opens his jaws wide while an ominous drumroll thunders through the room. The monster leaps into the air, trying to grab a bunch of lettuce hanging from the doorway. When he catches it, pandemonium... More »
Signaled by the first full moon of May, a culinary miracle occurs in the warming waters of the Texas Gulf Coast. Blue crabs, more formally known as Callinectes sapidus or "savory swimmers," begin to grow again after a winter of semi-hibernation.... More »
On the weekend, Kim Son's carts carry an average of 70 dim sum items. Don't miss the velvety eggplant stuffed with shrimp paste, mushroom-capped meatballs, Chinese broccoli, golden-fried turnip cakes, slurpy rice noodle rolls, cylinders of shrimp paste wrapped in seaweed and deep-fried in tempura batter, pork dumplings with quail eggs inside, or the sweet taro roll covered with almonds. But wait, you say, dim sum is Chinese, so how could the best dim sum in Houston be served at a Vietnamese... More »
Go for a table in the middle of one of the two gigantic dining rooms. If you sit at the corner of two aisles, you will double your luck. It may sound greedy now, but wait until you've had Kim Son's dim sum! Colorful xiu mai with a fluffy shrimp and pork filling, slurpy rice noodles, and mushroom-capped meatballs are standouts. If you're new to dim sum, ask for Kim Son's handy illustrated menu with four pages of color pictures. On the weekends, the carts carry lots of specials that aren't on... More »
After five years of satisfying customers with his famous black-pepper crabs ($11.95), Kim Son owner Tan La became concerned that the restaurant's most spectacular menu item was becoming passé. So he sent his mother back to Vietnam to find another crab recipe. She returned with one for tamarind crabs ($11.95), a dish introduced last year that marries Kim Son's plump, succulent crabs with a sweet and tart sauce rendered from the fuzzy, knobby tamarind bean. The crabs are stir-fried in... More »
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