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Jim and Debbie Taube's long-running Ke'e Grill is white-tablecloth formal, a sophisticated seafood restaurant to take your parents to on their birthdays or out-of-town guests for a special meal. Salmon, blue crab, sea bass, Florida snapper, grouper, Gulf shrimp, and lobster all figure on Ke'e's menu, along with grilled chops - pork, veal, lamb - and mixed dishes like surf and turf or seafood platters. If these perfectly executed dishes don't exactly break new ground creatively, they still please palates by combining traditional elements in precise and highly skilled ways. The setting, with glass walls overlooking a tropical garden, is beautiful.
A decent plate of seafood in South Florida is getting to be as rare as an overfished bluefin: seems all our local undersea wealth gets shipped north. Eastern urban elites may rave over some chef-of-the-moment's prep of "shrimp six ways," but we Floridians know there's nothing our luscious homegrown Gulf shellfish needs beyond a squirt of lemon and nine or ten tablespoons of butter. Same goes for our snapper and grouper: No need to dress up these starlets in anything but their own glistening skins, pan-fried crisp. Ke'e Grill understands that any sauce or preparation is only as good as the animal you start with, and what they start with is good indeed — from Floridian sea life like the Palm Beach snapper in a light, fragrant preparation of tomatoes and artichokes, to imported filet of Dover sole with a spoonful of citrus beurre blanc, and south African lobster tails naked except for a cup of drawn butter. Owners Jim and Debbie Taube have been cooking and serving seafood long enough to have long since forsworn any froufrou in their menu — the glitz is reserved for the service and décor in this beautiful room overlooking a tropical garden and the haute couture of their clientele.
One of the focal points of the elegant room at Ke'e Grill in Boca Raton is a pair of blue marlin mounted on a bamboo wall. The other is a sheet of floor-to-ceiling glass windows overlooking a tropical garden. But it's the marlin, each the size of... More »
How to scam a table at the restaurant of the moment: Be a celebrity, or just look like one. Stars always get star treatment. You can also try to pass yourself off as a restaurant reviewer. If you're not tossed out of the place on your keister... More »
A decent plate of seafood in South Florida is getting to be as rare as an overfished bluefin: seems all our local undersea wealth gets shipped north. Eastern urban elites may rave over some chef-of-the-moment's prep of "shrimp six ways," but we Floridians know there's nothing our luscious homegrown Gulf shellfish needs beyond a squirt of lemon and nine or ten tablespoons of butter. Same goes for our snapper and grouper: No need to dress up these starlets in anything but their own glistening... More »
Here today, gone tomorrow. That's the fate that befalls many new restaurants, but it's one future Keè Grill is likely to avoid. The keys to its success? Well, the simple, well-executed, tropically influenced cuisine includes macadamia-nut sautéed shrimp, crab-shiitake-crusted grouper, and grilled veal chop. The waiters are courteous and well trained. And the management is thoroughly professional. But the only key that gets you through the door is this one: a reservation,... More »
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