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Kavkaz is a banquet hall that fills up on weekends but remains mainly empty on weedays, which you should consider an opportunity--the service and food are substantially better then. It offers the food of the Caucasus Mountains (you know, where Caucasians supposedly originated), sandwiched between the Black and Caspian seas. For the relatively unadventuresome, charcoal-grilled kebabs will nicely fill the bill, and there's a diverse pickle plate that's the borough's best. But adventure eaters will go beyond those choices to "mutton eggs with potatoes" (a hash of spuds and lamb testicles) or kutabi (sumac-dusted turnovers filled with lamb and fresh herbs). The best kebabs, by the way, are made from big chunks of sturgeon, though the lamb ribs run a close second.
In a borough famous for its pickle platters, this one was exceptional. The tantalizing assortment flaunted big leaves of cabbage tinted bright pink with beet juice, slender green pepperoncini, a puckeringly tart carrot slaw, sliced unripe... More »
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