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Nobody's serving fruity drinks with umbrellas down in Georgetown, because Kauai Family Restaurant is not a Polynesian lounge. It's where expat islanders come for plate lunch: two scoops rice, one scoop mac salad, plus down-home versions of loco moco, ginger crispy chicken, adobo, and lau lau (pork and butterfish wrapped in taro leaves and steamed). Ignore the teriyaki-style Hawaiian barbecue; the kalua pork-slow-roasted for eight hours in owner Peter Buza's recreation of a pit oven-comes out smoky, tender, and shredded, the closest thing to North Carolina BBQ you'll get in the West. Come on Saturday morning and you can grab a bag of malasadas (eggy Portuguese doughnuts).
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