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Kasumi is an unpretentious, brightly lit neighborhood restaurant that specializes in ramen during the day and grilled yakitori at night. The tonkotsu ramen, with its pork-bone broth and skinny noodles, is fine, though not worth a pilgrimage. The dinner menu is made up of a mix of Japanese-restaurant staples (ohitashi, gyoza), grilled skewers (the bacon-wrapped asparagus, grilled Kobe-style beef, and chicken meatballs are highlights), more adventurous East-West compositions, and a lovely, subtle chazuke: broth poured over a mound of rice topped with salmon roe, salmon, and seaweed.
The all-purpose neighborhood Japanese restaurant — you know, the one that specializes in udon, tempura, and California roll combos, and begins with a free cup of miso soup — is finally on the wane. Or rather, it's evolving: Now that tuna maki are... More »
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