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Small though it is, Kappo Suzumaru is really two restaurants-a fast-paced sushi bar with comforting (California) and confounding (fermented soy bean?) rolls, and a leisurely main dining room separated by paper lanterns and banners stitched with slogans in katakana and kanji script. At some point, get the ochazuke: rice plum soup that's hearty but viciously tart-something that will comfort and enthrall you the rest of the day.
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