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Located down a flight of stairs, Kam Lok is a family-style Cantonese restaurant in a neighborhood packed with them. Look closer: Despite the unflattering lighting, the walls of Kam Lok's fish tank are clear and the tables aren't sticky. Another plus: few tourists. Under the glass on top of your table, you'll spot the restaurant's set menus, printed out in both Chinese and English. The $38 "harmonized" crab meal will provide four people with more food than they'd order a la carte: chicken and corn soup, sticky Peking ribs, mustard greens, and a salt-and-pepper crab so beautifully prepared that it makes the patient labor of dissecting the Dungeness worthwhile.
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