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Ever eaten in a Chinese restaurant where every dish was a knockout? The bank of teeming aquariums near the entrance is part of the secret. Try razor clams served in a complex sauce for which black beans are only a point of departure; lobster cooked elementally with scallions and ginger; or a clam casserole featuring a delicious broth sharpened with hot chiles. An unexpected favorite was a big T-bone steak smothered in flowering chives, the meat moist and done to a turn. As we dug into the sliced prawns, our waiter advised us that the heads we discarded were the best part. He was right.
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