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Claiming to be the city's only Serbian restaurant, Kafana ("cafe;") serves food that overlaps about 80 percent with other Balkan restaurants in town, including several novel configurations of the burek which may make this East Village watering hole worth a visit on their own. Gibanica takes those elements; cheese, egg, and phyllo; and reassorts them so the result is gloriously like mac-and-cheese. The ground meat cevapi and pljeskavica (onion-laced sausages and patties, respectively) are memorable for their inclusion of pork in the mixture, in addition to the usual beef and lamb. Finally, there's zito, a heap of sweetened wheat berries that tastes positively medieval.
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The mid-priced segment of the restaurant industry has been conquered by cooking-school graduates who create, plate, and garnish food in predictable ways, littering their menus with buzzwords, faddish ingredients, and ungainly combinations. I've... More »
Kafana claims to be the city's only Serbian restaurant, and they might be right. Ensconced in a charming, wood-clad premises that resembles a cottage in a fairytale, the kitchen turns out the greatest hits of Balkan cooking, including finger-shaped skinless sausages called cevapi (here made with a combination of beef, lamb, and pork), vegetable-stuffed turnovers known as pites, and jagnjeca kapama--a fascinating stew of lamb and spinach. 116 Avenue C, 212-353-8000, kafananyc.com (10009) More »
The city's first Serbian restaurant popped up on the rootin'-tootin' East Village frontier this year. The cevapi (skinless sausages) at Kafana are ground from a lamb, beef, and pork combo, and the mixed-mammal formula results in superior grilled flavor.
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