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The famous yellow lean-to known as Willie's Burgers has been transformed into a gleaming metal-clad shed that looks positively bombproof. The structure seems perennially closed, but just to the east Jumbo Hamburgers has moved into the storefront, flipping the standard half-steamed, half-fried giant Harlem burger, made with fresh meat with plenty of fat that cooks down into a moist diffuse lump, shaped by the poking and prodding of the cook so a depression forms in the middle. You're making a big mistake if you don't heap on the fried onions, cheese, bacon, and anything else that strikes your fancy. Fries are completely forgettable-the regulars never order 'em.
Acting like the old Jackson Hole chain, JUMBO HAMBURGERS has colonized certain uptown neighborhoods, grilling a great wad of meat, then partially steaming it under a metal pot lid. The result is a moist patty with a proportion of the tallow evacuated, but delicious nonetheless. More »
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