Description
I am not sure that I have ever tasted a tamale as wonderful as the tamales at the venerable Juanito's in East L.A., savory tamales steamed in rich stock instead of water, slender, pliant shells of masa lovingly patted into cornhusks, unrolling to reveal tender, superthin tubes of masa that seem almost engineered around fillings of pork in dusky red-chile sauce, stewed chicken, or melted cheese spiked with sweet green chiles. A Juanito's tamale, made the same way since Kennedy was in the White House, is a tamale worthy of a great metropolis.
