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If you can stand the body crush in the lobby, this Hong Kong-style restaurant is the place to go for dim sum. Dozens of delights, a good mix of tradition and novelty, circle the room: The pastry around the shrimp-and-onion balls crumples at the touch; the barbecued pork buns have the texture of clouds; translucent shrimp-and-leek dumplings are plumped out with juicy meat. And you'll need to double up on the custard buns (look for the crackly tops).
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