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Istanbul Cafe is a warm, comfortable Turkish restaurant and bakery. In the afternoons, tables of men linger over glasses of sweet mint tea and a dessert or two. Although lamb and beef are cooked every which way here--in kabobs, as kofte, stuffed into manti dumplings--the substantial salads and boreks are a vegetarian's feast. And the display case up front holds a dizzying array of Turkish sweets that appeal to anyone with a pulse. Each of those appetizer salads taste fresh and vibrant, but the lebni, so rich you could stand a spoon up in it, and the tomato salad are uncommonly good. The stuffed grape leaf contains rice mixed with currants, onions, and raisins to savory-sweet effect.
Istanbul Café sits on a rather glum office-block stretch of 57th Street, but the eatery feels somehow apart. The mix of diners reminds me of the crowd you might see in JFK International Airport just before the evening flights go out. One night,... More »
Even in a city obsessed with stunt dishes, the kumpir is an awe-inspiring thing. The KFC Double Down has got nothing on this Turkish twice-baked potato. The insides are scooped out and puréed with sheep's-milk cheese and butter, packed back into the jacket, then topped with various ingredients. At Istanbul Café, you can top your kumpir with red cabbage, pickles, sliced olives, corn, Russian salad, and/or hot-dog-like sliced beef sausage. On top of it all go squirts of ketchup... More »
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