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Tiny, chic Marina District bistro provides seasonal, often flawless French tapas. Impeccable potato-leek soup with truffle oil; baked goat cheese with tomato, pine nuts, and basil; and stunning seafood dishes might be a few of the mostly excellent selections. Small, affordable wine list; desserts that range from good to breathtaking. Limited reservations; walk-ins encouraged.
The ongoing tapas-mezes-zakuski-antojitos craze achieves its highest pinnacle at Isa, where star chef Luke Sung serves intricately designed, gustatorially satisfying small plates out of the French tradition. The menu varies with the season, but among the seafood specialties you might find potato-draped sea bass drizzled with brown butter; Dungeness crab salad with mango, celery, and Fuji apple; or a peppery tuna tartare cushioned with pear, pine nuts, and crushed avocado. Meatier dishes... More »
This award would have been a tie, except for one factor: Chez Nous (Mediterranean small plates on Fillmore) is hella freaking loud. Thus, let's travel to the Marina District's Isa, a narrow slip of a restaurant that opens onto a quiet, spacious, heated outdoor patio. Having made his bones at some of the city's top restaurants, chef/owner Luke Sung puts a refined, California/classic French spin on the trendy small plate: goat cheese with pine nuts, tomato, and basil; potato-leek soup with... More »
A few months back, while perusing Jeffrey Steingarten's incomparable The Man Who Ate Everything, I had a personal revelation as I read an essay that mentioned the difference between hunger and appetite. Though the dichotomy is nothing new... More »
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